A Best Cruise Deserves Real Boat In It.
It was, at least, what he thought of Chanel this season, but the plan ran into one drawback: the house could not find a suitable boat for its floating show. Then creative director Karl Lagerfeld brought the ship to the mainland and built a 330-foot passenger steamer in the middle of the Grand Palace.
The dresses have both said a sentimental journey around the ’80s, when Lagerfeld began to design for the house, and the signatures (padded sailor tweed pants, pearls, Scottish cashmere, camellias) Gabrielle Chanel took fashion first place.
The big imitation of the boat, called La Pausa, after Chanel’s summer home in southern France, while a press release drew attention to the fact that Coco Chanel was essentially the first designer to make clothes for affluent customers, first at the Deauville Complex a year 1919, which drew guests like Margot Robbie, Kristen Stewart and Lily – Rose Depp.
It was the first lifestyle collection adapted to the tendency of inactive classes to sail in the Mediterranean in the summer months, the super-rich still make the bulk. A young Chanel customer who got used to the scene said, “Everything I like to do when I’m on a boat: short dresses, sailor pants, prints.” Easy. “
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What the customer liked was the “femininity” of the shapes, with adorned jackets featuring a sleek 80s style with a pronounced waistline and extremely long lengths. It was a collection that satisfied customers: quilted white patent bags, fisherman’s bags and everything else.
But it was another phenomenon that shook the tongues: Lagerfeld took his bow with his former studio director Virginia Viard Mode, in a move that is sure to raise rumors of his possible withdrawal, but a Chanel spokesman said he had done it before, and that had no special significance for the gesture.
At that moment, the creator’s disproportionate imagination was to surprise any followers of his Chanel shows who had a space rocket, a waterfall, and a replica of the Eiffel Tower in those past seasons. But it was a blockbuster, even by its standards.
The sound of seagulls, fog-horns, and creaking cords filled the air as the twilight settled on the glass and steel roofs of the Grand Palace. After the show was over, the gates were lowered and the guests entered the fuselage for the afternoon party.
“It’s amazing, but I’m not surprised,” said Depp. “Karl, it’s going to be something so different and high, his games are beyond that, everything is very realistic, even the lights that look like water with stars and smoke and everything – it really brings to life the incredible imagination of Karl.”
During a breakthrough in Chanel’s study the day before the show, Lagerfeld opened some statistics for Robbie with his eyes wide open to attend her first Chanel show ever since he was named home ambassador in March: able to hold 1,000 people, took the cruise two months to build.
“Jesus,” the actress mumbled in surprise. Looking at a picture of the decoration on Lagerfeld’s iPhone, he mentioned Kate Winslet and Leonardo DiCaprio in the famous “Titanic” scene, where they lean on the bow of the ship. “Will someone get up and do that?” Robbie asked jokingly as he opened his arms.
Lagerfeld thought he had more in common with the legendary Italian Transatlantic Rex, who made a memorable appearance in “Amarcord”, the drama directed by Federico Fellini in 1973. “But Amarcord is made of cardboard while it’s built like a boat,” he said.
It’s not that I’m a big fan of the real thing. “I like the idea of boats, liners during the two-war period and the rest, but in real life I love houses on the earth with my things around me, it gives me claustrophobia [ships] because you feel that you are cut off from the world, “he contradicted.
But with his usual brilliance he took up the nautical theme and combined sporty sports silhouettes with sixties pop elements such as miniskirts, white socks and Mary Jane’s silver or white, including a slightly clinically soled rubber version. , “There’s less land and dust on boats than other places,” Lagerfeld said.
Almost all eyes had a purse containing large satchel pockets and a round lifejacket pocket.
The collection depended on what he called the “soft dress,” a design that consisted of a separate top and a skirt that featured a thorn in the stomach. A version of the night contrasts with the sailor’s embroidered stripes with thick bundles of sequin confetti at the waist and sleeves.
The design was inspired by Vorticism, a little-known early 20th-century British art movement, as well as the blinded Op Art camouflage patterns used by Allied warships during the First World War. These eclectic influences have found their way into other graphic designs, such as the blue and white zigzag pattern on a summer dress.
Chanel praised the widespread trend in street clothing, including ripped jeans, leather shorts with frayed and trimmed denim suits in the style of their traditional tweed suits, including an elegant navy blue and black version by Bella Hadid.
While an Italian disco card lights up on the speakers, the collection on the territory of “Love Boat” was entered with ironic outfits such as a leather jacket and red trousers, harem pants and black dots.
Closer to his legacy lie items such as smoked cotton shirts, pleated skirts to the knees and a string of striped sailor pants with white pullovers. They were reminiscent of the simple Coco Chanel costumes that drove the Flying Cloud and the Cutty Sark yachts of their lover, the Duke of Westminster.
Lagerfeld re-launched the concept of the sleeping cruise when he took over the brand in 1983, and recently added two more collections, Coco Neige and Coco Beach, to meet the demand for clothing for a particular season.
“My contract with Chanel is four collections a year, and I make ten, I do not care, I want it to work, it’s constantly updated, and the brand offers an option that can not be found anywhere else “, he said.
Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel’s Fashion Department, said the cruise collection has a galvanizing effect on the company’s 200-store network.
“When we restarted the Chanel cruise, it was a response to a real customer need, first designed for wealthy Americans who went to the Caribbean in style, and then, bit by bit, it has become a unique moment, the shops, “he said.
Since 2000, the brand organizes separate shows for the cruise collection. Since November 15, there are colorful clothes that promise warmer climates. “It always has a magical effect on customers,” said Pavlovsky.
In the past, Chanel has reinforced the collection’s bypass connotations by showing them in exotic locations such as Havana, Venice or Seoul. But in recent years, the French fashion house has struggled to support Paris, which has been experiencing tourism collapse after a series of terrorist attacks in France in 2015 and 2016.
Although visitor numbers have risen over the past year, the strong euro and ongoing strikes by national operator Air France and rail operator SNCF are once again threatening to forget France as a tourist destination. Vacation. Pavlovsky said that the last Air France strike on Thursday did not affect the guests who attended the show.
“It’s boring – these repeated strikes, either Air France or SNCF, are not good for the image of France, but I think the French are showing that they can find solutions to everything,” he said, noting that passengers and The travelers They became creative. In the meantime, it is a business as always for the luxury house.
“French is still a beacon of elegance all over the world, so there is a strong connection between Chanel and the French customer,” added Pavlovsky. “That’s why it’s so important for us to have nice shops in France.”
“I like the Grand Palace,” Lagerfeld said. “I remember when I came to a motor show with my parents when I was a child and found the place fascinating, I never thought I would make a parade there one day.”
In response to criticism that her megabytes are wasted, Chanel plans to take advantage of La Pausa during her short life. The collection will be posted on the ship for the next three days so customers, staff and students can carefully examine it.
As a first step for the company, the seamstresses, embroiderers and other craftsmen who worked in the collection can take the family members with them to show them their work.
“The whole thing is recycled, and reused,” said Pavlovsky. “This reaction is not new at Chanel, but it comes after the mini-controversy that followed our last show with real trees, which was unfair to the brand, and that’s why we want to show our commitment.”
After the show on the platform Lagerfeld welcomed the audience with his former studio designer Virginie Viard. Then the podiums sank, the audience was invited on board and the whole thing turned into a party boat, with oysters on deck and Captain Karl holding court in an imaginary white ballroom. A fantasy without going to sea to start the journey through France. Next stop, Dior.
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